Kering SA appointed Balenciaga designer Demna Gvasalia to oversee a makeover of its struggling Gucci fashion label, disappointing investors who had expected a high-profile external hire.

Kering shares tanked on Friday morning after the group led by Francois-Henri Pinault chose to bet on subversive in-house talent Demna to reinvigorate its Gucci label rather than hiring a big-ticket name from fashion's overheating job market.

Gucci announced Thursday that the Balenciaga artistic director Demna will take over the creative direction of the Italian luxury fashion house, starting in July. Gucci and its French parent Kering said in a statement that Demna “has redefined modern luxury, earning global recognition and cementing his authority on the industry.’’